The look Americana describes 1950’s revival clothing. Everything from suits to
worn out denim jeans had a comeback during the sub cultures popularity. It
captured people’s imagination and lifestyle becoming more and more popular with
an adolescent audience looking for something unique. Ray Ban glasses, 501
jeans, deck shoes and gingham shirts are the most recognisable and iconic items
from this era. 
VictorianaA subculture where inspiration comes from period dress and life during the 19th Century. They are all about authenticity and not about copied remakes.
Skinheads 1960’s
Skinheads evolved from the working class Mod’s that weren’t quite rich enough to pursue the lifestyle fully. They were heavily influenced by West Indian rude boys and their pro liberation music, as well as popular black music of the time (surprisingly). Their trademark haircut, worker boots and denim clothing was first just a practical way to dress, since many worked in warehouses and in hands on practical industries. Later on Skinheads developed controversial political views that were racially motivated and resulted in creating movements such as the White Nationalist Front. The culture still carefully survives today, and has influenced significant film makers such as Shane Meadows (This is England).
Skinheads evolved from the working class Mod’s that weren’t quite rich enough to pursue the lifestyle fully. They were heavily influenced by West Indian rude boys and their pro liberation music, as well as popular black music of the time (surprisingly). Their trademark haircut, worker boots and denim clothing was first just a practical way to dress, since many worked in warehouses and in hands on practical industries. Later on Skinheads developed controversial political views that were racially motivated and resulted in creating movements such as the White Nationalist Front. The culture still carefully survives today, and has influenced significant film makers such as Shane Meadows (This is England).
Sloane Rangers / Chelsea Girls 1980’s/90’s +The wealthy and privileged parade around Knightsbridge and Chelsea. Their designer clad bodies, sport everything “just in” at Harvey Nichols and Harrods, and they test out the latest cosmetic fixes at the most expensive day spas in London. Sloanies have connections and are only seen at the latest parties, clubs and cafes- spot them beneath Chanel sunglasses drinking flat whites. Lady Diana Spencer started off the trend and budding socialites such as Pippa Middleton continue the tradition. The new generation of Chelsea girls have stormed the market in the form of Caggie and Spencer (Made in Chelsea) and many criticize their way of live. But, don’t we just all secretly wish we could holiday in the Bahamas and brush our Ralph Lauren Blazers with the likes of Kate and Wills.
Non-conformist Soul Boys danced the night away below sea level in Canvey Island’s coolest dive- The Goldmine. They craved to be different, so followed DJ’s (Chris Hill) not bands and listened to never released music. They liked to oppose and adapt so drank bottles of Vodka on Saturday afternoons and made “go to” locations in extreme corners of the country. Soul Boys were dedicated, always drinking, always dancing and most defiantly living life dangerously.
This American rock music loving, leather wearing, café culture resided alongside the Mod’s. In stark contrast to their clean lines Rockers preferred to rebel and create their own sporting lifestyle based on necessity and practicality. Fashion didn’t come first- Motorcycles did, and depending on your ride, status and wealth. Rockers resembled the working class and the end of “rule time Britain”.
The start of rock and rock began in the 1930’s with rock a billy. Consisting of the popular music at the time (swing, rhythm and blues, boogie woogie) it was artists such as Buddy Holly that took this music and dared to push the boundaries. At the time when African American civil rights were all over the press, artists and musicians alike fought to break the barriers of black and white.
The tail end of early Punks, “No Wavers” were a loose group of New York City tagalongs in the early 1980’s. They listened to abrasive music and work quirky breakdown clothing.
Punks were anti-everything, anti-sexism, racism, consumerism, and especially anti-mainstream. Punks originated as a backlash to what had turned typical- Hippies, and unsurprisingly Punk too ran its course and turned typical too. Punk’s DIY ethic and aesthetic is still so popular- with numerous “individuals” sporting Dr Martins, Levi’s and accessorising with statement hair. A left wing political stance and anti-establishment views were core beliefs and influenced Punk-zines (underground literature) and artists such as the Sex Pistols. All about free thought, rebellion and individualism that wasn’t very individual considering they stole most of their look from 1960’s skin heads.
New Wave 1980’s
Among the numerous cultures in the 1980’s and possibly one of the biggest and most popular was New Wave. It attracted a hoard of youths looking to fit in with the latest “cool”, whether it be art, fashion or music. It was the “top of the pops” scene where “image was everything” and everyone was trying to find their own unique style and hideous hairstyle. Bands such as Blondie became icons overnight, it was a consumers dream.
This relatively new culture was short lived probably due to the ever changing and fast paced digital world we now live in. It started as a term used to coin a mixture of music that was being played in particular clubs at the time, it could encompass anything from electro; house, indie, rock, techno and pop. New Rave’s stand out aesthetic was the use of neon colours; from baggy clothes, glow sticks and psychedelic visual effects. Celebrities such as “Timothy Two Tooth” played a key part of the New Rave nightclub scene. Musicians, fashion designers and artists frequently visited secret and exclusive clubs and locations- making them hit destinations for the following public.
Mod’s were the Rocker rivals. Hanging out across the road in continental coffee bars rather than café’s, and driving slim lined scooters rather than bulks of metal motorcycles. These educated working class teenagers, many art school students appreciated finer things in life- French film and literature, art and fine Italian suits. They were cool, neat, sharp and sexy, unlike their old fashioned and out of touch parents. It was about the way you looked, and pocket money was spent on clothes not toys or food. Teddy boys and Beatniks- you can still find the Androgynous look at its peak today.
One of the most unmistakable cultures- Harajuku. Hard to define since the word Harajuku originates from the town that the phenomenon began in at the start of 1990’s. It started with teenagers dressing up in any stand out fashion style they wanted on a Sunday and socialising together. The style and culture has become increasingly popular over the past two decades that artists including Gwen Stefani have employed “Harajuku Girls” as backing dancers and publicity extras to enhance her brand and music. A Harajuku kid could dress up as anything from; comic characters, impersonate “California Girls” known as Ganguro, or just imitate another subculture. Would you dare to be this different?
Free from social restrictions and in search of the meaning of life Hippies spent long summer days in a daze. Their ideologies originated from primitive cultures, and their universal baggy and free style of dress stood as a visual symbol for their respect and believes in individual rights and world peace. Although against consumerist views- Woodstock and the summer of love were the place to be seen, especially if you were a fan of smoking weed and finding your spiritual self.
Indie standing for independent- adolescent teens share love for art and music. Now a mainstream centre of fashion it creates attention and portrays those that follow the culture as individual. They embrace awkward-ness, and eccentric perception. Ruling out the rules of fashion.
Head bangers- A harsher version of gothic style yet not as over exaggerated on the fashion side. They typically sport long hair, and an un-kept look (un-ruley beards). Idealised representation of their culture includes behaviour as well as appearance. Music plays a big part in this lifestyle- underground bars and clubs are the place to be.
One of the most judged cultures that ever existed- Goths looked to 1800’s horror film, poetry and imagery for influences as well as Elizabethan and Victorian regal dress. They displayed themes of romance and mysticism most commonly dressing in heavily ornate clothes, with various props and accessories almost always in black. Exclusive clubs such as the “Bat Cave” in Soho were popular hangouts- adding secret lifestyle these followers lived. Contrary to popular beliefs the first and “original” Goths were anti-violent supporting tolerance, diversity and individualism. The modern conception of Goth promotes violence hatred and crime- a suggestion of how far the culture has come in 30 years.
These informal and relaxed followers lived a pretty hum-drum life. Well educated members of society from middle and upper classes were well informed of the world and made valid and strong beliefs about a “united world”, pro rights and feminist issues. Equality and tradition were at the core of folk lifestyle, and their believes were the grounding of more adventurous Hippies. They lived pleasant lifestyles singing and dancing in shirts jackets and formal trousers.
Von Gutenberg is an online magazine that caters for the fetish world. The whole genre describes the lifestyle and arts that relate to fetish acts, movies and music icons. Typical dress included bondage like outfits with leather, chain and metal detailing. The subculture has moved from underground into popular culture with celebrities such as Lady GaGa and Rihanna taking influences into their music and videos. Vivenne Westwood contributed to the subculture in the early 80’s with her shops “Sex” that celebrated S and M Fashion.
Disco Trannies are transvestites well known among the gay club scene, often more extravagant, more about the “glamour and glitz”. Jodie Harsh and Mika Doll are celebrities and idols in the gay community- the finest examples of Disco Trannies frequently hosting nights at Circus and Punk. The bigger, the brighter, the shinier and sexier- Disco Trannies are all about having a big of feminine fun.
Iconic for their unkempt appearance, Crusties’ roots came from punk and grebo ideologies. Typical clothing included second hand goods, dreadlocks, piercings and tattoos depicting their life and struggles. Crusties’ beliefs were similar to that of Hippies and Punks- they supported anti-capitalism and were often active in road protests and squatting. The new age traveller?
This no-limits society catapulted to the limelight with the help of extravagant artists Michael Alig and James St. James. Studio 54 within Manhattan’s party district was the place to be seen sporting elaborate and outrageous makeup and costumes and to fit in you defiantly had to take drugs. It was an influential scene- the place to “be seen” and everyone wanted to be seen there for sure.
Aggressive, arrogant teenagers, chavs generally have a bad reception. Typically coming from an underclass background, they most commonly come from urban estates and idolise older gang members. Famed for their anti-social behaviour, street drinking and counterfeit designer clothes many argue that we need to give these “thugs” a chance. If you’re thinking Little Britain- Vicky Pollard you’re on the right track but surly there is more to these guys and girls than asbo’s and alcohol.
Hip-Hop culture originated in the African-American community’s living in the outer “urban” edges of New York City. Their social, economic and political views were expressed through mc-ing, dj-ing, graffiti, and breakdancing. Breakdancing is where the term B-Boys comes from. The particular “gangs” you were seen in determined your social status and the “moves” you performed your ranking within that. Sportswear was originally the choice of dress for b-boys and has developed into fashion and lux-sportswear. Widespread coverage over the TV, music channels and social networks has enabled breakdancing and hip-hop as a whole to flourish and become an appreciated art. Dance troops such as Diversity and films like Step-Up champion the development and origins of B-Boys.
Voguers 1960’s + (Modern Vougers 2005+)
Influenced by the angular poses featured in iconic Vogue magazine, the term “Voguing” started off as a stylised dance move in the 1960’s. Madonna promoted the move in her hit “Vogue” (1990), turning the move into a style and scene for youth culture. Over the past decade it has transformed into a culture obsessed with the latest magazines, blog and celebrity outfit. Resembling the fashion “know it all” that follows Vogue like a religion, and saves every last penny to buy the newest Birkin bag. However there’s no dought these ladies are fashionable and glamorous.